To Blast,or not to Blast?

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To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  JEFF KYLE on Thu 31 Dec 2009, 11:19 pm

I just got a rust free Euro '55,but it was repainted 30 years ago and never put together. The Toyota paint has to come off,and I want it back to the metal.
What should a Soda Blast cost,approx?
A local shop is supposed to be checking on getting a mobile blasting business to come do several VWs at once,hopefully to save $$.
I have the body off and on a rolling steel dolly for it so he can get to everything.
Or,are there better ways to strip it?
In the photo it's on an IRS chassis just to get it here...I have a completely built '61 pan ready for it.

Oh,and it will be Jungle GREEN;)
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  Tanbug on Fri 01 Jan 2010, 1:05 am

I have no clue on cost. Soda blasting leaves the filler, sand doesn't.
This months HVW (just arrived yesterday) has a tech on bodywork with soda blast.
Check it out.
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  JEFF KYLE on Fri 01 Jan 2010, 1:10 pm

http://www.deluxecustoms.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1
I saw that article,but didn't know it won't remove filler.I can get whatever's left off though.
The link above is Deano's '67 in paint.I'm not sure about the NACA ducts in the rear,maybe they will grow on you.
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  Fifty - Five on Sat 02 Jan 2010, 2:08 pm

Thats some 4x4 right there, Looks kinda cool though.... Shocked

I think if the cars is disassembled then sand is the way to go, I think soda is best for an assembled car. My negighbor had a early 50's chevy that had been soda blasted and the guy got charged something like $650 to get it blasted and my neighbor was complaining that he was still going to have to do the car the same as if it was never blasted. So if it's just paint removal it may be ok, but surface rust and filler need sand.



Good Year by the way!!!! cheers sign cheers
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  Kx3 on Sat 02 Jan 2010, 2:15 pm

I used to have cars sent out and Plastic Media Blasted ....... Works very good , you don't get ANY panel distortion which is possible with sand ...... Soda works good to but it messy and requires alot of washing and blowing out after ........
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  overspray on Sat 02 Jan 2010, 2:20 pm

I prefer sand....-44.....get a much better job IMO..... But most the jobs I do have rust.

If it's been painted that long with no issues why strip it ?

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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  JEFF KYLE on Sat 02 Jan 2010, 7:03 pm

It has paint bubbles on the roof from sitting under a pine tree at one time the P/O told me...Frank Rise.
You are probably right about leaving most of the old paint and sealing it with primer before repaint.Much easier.
I guess I'll get all the trim off and haul it around to some places to see if anyone wants to sand/paint it.
The only place on the car a fridge magnet won't stick is the original aprons.There is filler on the front,and a Cal-Look cover on the rear one.I have heard you can transfer the OG 4 finger section to a replacement apron.I have a new Euro one to move it to.I will have to do the same in the rear since the cover has probably hurt the stock piece.
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  overspray on Sun 03 Jan 2010, 1:54 am

JEFF KYLE wrote:It has paint bubbles on the roof from sitting under a pine tree at one time the P/O told me
.



I bet it's from the type primer used not a tree.... If so.. you need to strip the whole car.

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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  JEFF KYLE on Sun 03 Jan 2010, 12:57 pm

I think it may be lacquer and coming up...anyway,there is filler that has to go too.
I'd hate to pay for soda blasting and still have a lot of work left to do,and the clean up after...
I have a big Kobalt comperssor,but I have rented the industrial blasting units for work before,although the things I was cleaning could not be hurt.
The rental place may know what media will be safest with their equipment to use on thin metal.
Here's the pan...I have a Kafer brace and S&W cage for it.

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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  VOLKSWAGENUT on Sun 03 Jan 2010, 2:24 pm

pretty nice looking pan. Cool
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  JEFF KYLE on Sun 03 Jan 2010, 8:51 pm

Thanks!
The whole thing was powder-coated gloss black.It's a '61.Trans in a Super Pro-Street that I had Kevin at KCR build.
Beam is a new 4" linkpin,Chop Shop Alum. tie rods,Empi 4 wheel disc w/ 2 1/2 drop spindles,17" Rader wheels,195-40-17 and 225-50-17 Yok. S. Drive rubber.
Goodies on the shelf...Cruiser Pedal from Scott,FAT Hex-Bars,Berg shifter,Nardi Competion Steering wheel with Speedwell button,and a brushed pipes/polished Magnaflow Lowdown RKC exhaust that I had Tiger at A-1 weld up.
Engine is ready,a 2275 with CB 5.5 H-Beams,FK89,DRD 42x37 Heads,New AS41 CB Supercase,CB Quicktune EFI w/31 lb injectors.
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  VOLKSWAGENUT on Sun 03 Jan 2010, 10:20 pm

lots of goodies. Cool
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Re- blasting ?

Post  Noh2o on Sun 03 Jan 2010, 10:39 pm

hey,

the best way to strip a vw is acid dipping. not many of them left.. we always decided on walnut shells to help keep the heat down. however we never blast a flat panel with paint on it. way too much work to fix with the heat issues associate with any of the media choices (soda, sand, walnut etc.) i typicall spray paint a x on the doors. qtr's and middle of roof to keep the guys away from those areas. the rest is so round or an edge it doesnt seem to be affected as much.

my guy quite doing soda a long time ago. said it was too expensive to keep up.

they charge me around 600 - shell. and about 200 for a pan. this all goes up with the more rust. i had one cost as little as 150 for a shell as the p.o didn't prep the paint very well. it is a time and money deal for them so they typicall charge by the hour for however long it takes. if you can get someone to quote it as a turn key. take it. if it has any original paint left on it. it is a mother to get off and you will come out on the winning end.

just my experience.

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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  JEFF KYLE on Sun 03 Jan 2010, 11:11 pm

Thanks Guys for all the good info! I really don't want this body screwed up.I've been through too many wrecked rust-buckets before finding this one.
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re-blast or not

Post  Noh2o on Mon 04 Jan 2010, 8:35 pm

one of my customers said there is a place in NC and SC - same company two locations that is dipping cars. He said the model A he had done cost him 850.00. cheap and the right way to go in my book. I think he said it was "chem clean". the do alot of industrial stuff and cars on the side.

i can get more info if you need

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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  JEFF KYLE on Tue 05 Jan 2010, 10:40 am

Thanks!
http://chem-strip.com/default.asp
I sent them a request for a firm quote.I will ask them about turn-around,if it's cleaned up well after,etc.I have always heard about the dip coming back to haunt you,but maybe that's from not cleaning up correctly.Boyd's shop dipped all theirs that I saw,but who knows how the paint is on those cars now?
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  overspray on Tue 05 Jan 2010, 12:24 pm

Yes clean up is the trick on dipping.. I have reworked a couple doors and decklids that were dipped and it not cleaned well due to hot weather it runs out stripping the paint.

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Coming back with two rides in 2012...
1959 ..2276...Fatina
and a 1964 nice shiney Greenish..yellowish ride..
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  Mountain Power House on Tue 05 Jan 2010, 1:14 pm

Brent did this to his Ghia about 11 years ago.. It turned out great because i stripped everything, BUT that included the paint inside the heater channels and inside other areas that could not be reached with a spray gun. We had to drill holes in these areas and make a contraption to blow epoxy primer into them so it would not rust from the inside out.

It hasn't rusted at all..

The other issue was it eliminated all the lead filler the car had from the factory. This is not as big of a deal wioth a beetle, but a Ghia has a ton of factory lead in the body, especially around the roof section.

I'd have a car done this way, luckily the next car I am doing already has a perfect body that hasn't been on the road since 1967 and has been in dry storage every since.. It hasn't spent a night outside in over 40 years...
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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  JEFF KYLE on Tue 05 Jan 2010, 10:08 pm

Ridin Hi in back with no engine...just sat body on tonite to make sure nothing has clearance issues.225s fit stock fenders in rear.It don't rub,so back off and bodywork it.Fronts turn lock to lock.

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Re: To Blast,or not to Blast?

Post  VOLKSWAGENUT on Tue 05 Jan 2010, 10:24 pm

Looking nice. Cool
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